Bath, England–January 2008

Bath, England was originally established as a spa resort for the Romans. Bath is located on the River Avon at the only natural hot springs in the United Kingdom. Besides the cities fascinating hybrid history, the architecture is also very appealing. The limestone buildings were designed using Roman architecture, creating a unique and gorgeous looking city.

Like York, in Bath we also took advantage of a guided tour by a local volunteer passionate about his city. I would recommend looking into such tours in both cities. They were both fascinating and provided a unique angle to each destination.

One site you can not miss is the Pulteney Bridge (also called the Little Ponte Vecchio). This bridge crosses the River Avon and was inspired by the Ponte Vecchio and Ponte di Rialto in Florence and Venice, Italy. The bridge is worth visiting but is tiny in comparison to the bridges of Italy.

We also spent a good deal of time at the Bath Abbey.

While the inside of the Abbey was interesting, I enjoyed the outside architecture. Look at to the picture below. Do you see the angels climbing Jacob’s Ladder? The angels are climbing the ladder between Earth and the Heavens. Look closely now, do you notice that the angels are climbing in both directions?

The final main tourist attraction I will recommend is the Roman Baths. I was amazed how well preserved the Roman Baths were!! It was really cool to go through the museum and see how far down they were and feel the warmth. Once you have completed the tour you can even wander into the Grand Pump Room and taste some of the Bath water.

While our last stop in Bath isn’t a true tourist attraction, it was fun for Jay and I to find. My mom studied abroad in Bath in college and gave us the address of her flat. We could not resist and had to stop by for one final photo opportunity!

I hope you have enjoyed reading about my international adventures. I will be back tomorrow with the beginning of many recap posts of our wonderful trip to California!!

Edinburgh, Scotland–January 2008

Our third city on our United Kingdom tour was Edinburgh, Scotland. I am sure many of your are not surprised that our first stop was The Elephant House (aka the Birthplace of Harry Potter). This where J.K. Rowling sat and wrote Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone with her daughter in a buggy. It was fun to enjoy a nice hot meal here before continuing on our day.

Many of our adventures in Edinburgh were right off the Royal Mile. We ventured into almost every museum, coffee shop, fudge shop and bar. The World’s End, pictured below being one of our favorites, and Deacon Brodie’s Tavern. The first floor is a tavern, while the top floor is a restaurant. This tavern is the former home of Deacon William Brodie, the man who inspired Robert Louis Stevenson' Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. Interestingly enough, Stevenson’s father owned furniture made by his son’s inspiration, Deacon William Brodie.

Deacon William Brodie was a Scottish cabinet-maker, deacon of his trades guild and Edinburgh city councilor who also maintained a secret night life. By day, Brodie was a respectable business man and by night a burglar who enjoyed gambling and partying.

As a cabinet-maker, part of his job during the day was to install and repair locks. At night, he would use wax copies of the keys to the locks he installed during the day and rob many of the richest members of Edinburgh society. The money he gained from his night job was used to fund his second life which included gambling, two mistresses and 5 children. After almost 20 successful years of crime he hired three accomplices. During a raid, one of his accomplices was captured and ratted out Brodie. Insult to injury, Brodie was hanged at the Tolbooth using a gallows Brodie designed and helped fund.

After you fill up on lunch, I would definitely recommend spending the better part of the day at the Edinburgh Castle. There is so much to see! I would say this was my second favorite castle behind the Windsor Castle.

One day, we decided to take a bus trip outside the city up to Loch Ness. Our first stop at some tourist trap that provided this classic picture of me and a Highland Cow. At least the scenery was beautiful!

The highlight of the bus tour was the Urquhart Castle on the edge of Loch Ness. This castle holds a special place in my heart. The castle was destroyed in the 17th century by Williamite troops holding the castle against the Jacobite forces. The Jacobite Rebellions were a series of uprisings attempting to restore the Stuart kings to the throne and are coincidently my descendants!!

And a great place to take a lot of pictures!!!

At the Urquhart Castle we also boarded a boat (appropriately named “Jacobite”) to ride across Loch Ness.

No monsters here! Only two cold college kids!!

I hope you enjoyed my brief overview of our time in Edinburgh. Stop back tomorrow evening for our final stop in the United Kingdom, Bath.

York, England–January 2008

Today enjoy a post by Jay on our trip to York, England.

In 2009, Sarah and I took a vacation of Great Britain and Scotland.  One of my favorite places from the whole trip was York.

York has a very long history, it was settled by the Romans in 71 A.D. because it was at the "confluence" (SAT word), or merging of 2 major rivers. As the area developed, it came to lie in between London and Edinburgh.  Because it has had such influence over the shipping and trade of the area, it was conquered and re-conquered much through it's history, which lead to an eclectic assortment of building styles and types packed very tightly together.

[insert pic of buildings]

While we were there, we went on a free tour of the area given by a volunteer historian who loved her city.

This tour was amazing!  She told us about the different governments and powers-that-be that had owned this land throughout the years and showed us a lot of interesting points that our tourist eyes would have over-looked. 

First, she walked us along the roman-built wall and pointed out the changes made to it by the Anglican, Norman, Tudor, and Stuart dynasties.  We also saw a lot of the ruins of castles and forts from by-gone eras that litter the area.

Then we walked down "the Shambles" which is a medieval street that has been preserved and shows how the city grew randomly, as people built houses wherever they could in any space available.  It was in stark contrast to the ultra-structured style of modern cities, all except for Boston that is. 

This area is full of a large assortment of shops, including fashion and tea shops, which apparently are world famous for their tea; if you're into that sort of thing. 

What I was really struck by was the size of the buildings.  Most of the doors were small enough that I had to duck down and turn sideways to get through them, and when we were inside, I felt that if I had been wearing heels (not that I do, but if I had been), my head would have hit the ceiling.

The last thing I was going to comment on was York Minster, which dominates the city in it's presence, but this post is turning into a book, so if you want to find out about that, you'll just have to go find out for yourself!

London, England–December 2007

Jay was a little jealous of my trip to Italy with my mom. To make it up to him, we planned a trip to the United Kingdom. Today I will walk you through the packed fun we had in London. Check back tomorrow for details on our second destination, York.

We arrived in jolly ole England on December 27, 2007, after an overnight flight on British Airways from BWI. To this day, Jay still makes fun of me because I wanted herbal tea on the flight. I asked the steward what kind of tea they had, he promptly replied “British”.

Our first day, we wandered around the well known city sights with Jay’s parents. Jay’s parents asked if they could come with us for the London portion of our trip. We happily agreed!

Parliament was closed for the Holidays, so we wondered around snapping pictures of many historic and iconic places that day. We did manage a ride on the London Eye and visit Westminster Abbey. The London Eye was cool, but pricey, and I believe you can see comparable views from the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Westminster Abbey was so fascinating. I have never seen so many tombs in a church. The Poets’ Corner was one of my favorite areas of the church. The churches of England were vastly different from those of Italy. Italy’s churches are filled with famous art for the Renaissance, while England’s churches feel more Medieval. After the Abbey, we ate lunch at The Sanctuary House, recommended to us by a priest at the Abbey. By far, this was one of my favorite meals in London.

The next day we schedule a bus tour outside the city to Windsor Castle, Stonehenge and Oxford. We all really loved Windsor Castle. The self guided tour was excellent. Of all the Castles in and around London, this was my favorite.

Next we headed to Stonehenge. It was very windy and cold at Stonehenge, but the monument was fascinating. Did you know that the monument was constructed in three parts, the first part being built over 5,050 years ago?!?!? Crazy huh?

Unfortunately, we did not get to see much of Oxford since it was dark, windy, raining and cold when we arrived.

On our third day in London, we did a lot shopping! Jay’s mom loves to shop, so we started the day at Portobello Market, the world’s largest antiques market. Jay’s mom collects Wedgewood, this market was a gold mine of Wedgewood. Jay and I still find pieces we bought on our trip and have yet to give to his mom.

After the market we explored Kensington Palace and Harrods before calling it a day.

The 30th was packed!!! Jay and I explored St. Paul’s Cathedral and climbed the dome. By far best view in London and fascinating. Who doesn’t want to see where Princess Diana was married?!?!?!

After the Cathedral we met Jay’s parents at the Tower of London. Another London MUST!! Our tour guide was amazing! Did you know there are a total of 13 towers in the Tower of London?? You can also view the Crowned Jewels and famous execution locations!

After the Tower, Jay and I strolled around the Thames River. We walked over the Tower Bridge, along the Queen’s Walk, past Shakespeare Globe, into the Tate Modern and eventually across Millennium Bridge. Can you tell Jay and I love to explore cities by foot?!?!?!

On New Year’s Eve, Jay and I woke early. We ventured through Hyde Park (to see the Peter Pan Statue) before meeting his parents at Buckingham Palace. There we watched the changing of the guard.

After the changing of the guard we relaxed and enjoyed Jay’s parents company before we ventured off the next morning. We enjoyed an early dinner and then Jay and I went to a local pub to bring in the New Year.

The next morning, we got up early and headed to the King’s Cross Station to catch the train to York. Of course, we first had to pose with the Platform 9 3/4 sign!!!

Check back tomorrow for our next adventure!!

Rome, Italy–January 2007

Today, I hope you will enjoy a post by my Mom on our trip to Rome.

I first went to Rome the first week of May in 1967 with my parents. I was 13 years old and living with my military family in Frankfurt, Germany. My father was very excited about going to Rome and seeing all the Roman Ruins. I think my mother, who was raised Catholic, was excited about seeing St. Peter’s Basilica. My brother and I were teenagers along for the ride. My parents made Europe so much more exciting for teenagers by allowing us to order beer and wine along with them. My impressions of Rome in 1967: busy, dirty, historic, medieval and exciting.

Flash forward 40 some years to the fall of 2006. My college age daughter, Sarah, approaches me to join her on a trip to Italy in January 2007. What? I have a full time job that’s at its busiest in January with the Maryland Legislative Session. I have college tuitions to pay. I have a house I’m still paying off. I can’t possible afford to go to Italy for two weeks. Sarah offers to split the cost of the trip with me. My sweet husband gives me that look that I shouldn’t turn this down. My boss tells me to go and wishes her daughter would split the cost of a trip with her “anywhere.” So we’re off.

We started our trip in Venice. Second stop was Florence and the final stop was Rome. I have been assigned by my OCD daughter to write about Rome. (Little did she know I would edit it, read that and want you all to know I gave her the choice of Venice, Florence or Rome).

Rome is Rome. There is so much history and art in Rome you could spend weeks taking it all in. Sarah and I started with one of those double decker bus tours of Rome. As soon as we got on the bus it began to pour down rain. Needless to say, we stayed on the lower level and every time we sped around a corner, rain poured down the stairs from the upper level. Since it would have been miserable to try to walk around Rome that day, the bus worked well in getting us oriented to the city. Once it stopped raining we jumped off the bus to look at the Trevi Fountain. Nothing changed there in 40 years and I still think it’s bizarre that it’s stuck in the middle of a neighborhood. Then we walked to the Pantheon. The Pantheon in 1967 was a cool reprieve from a hot day. In the evening of 2007 it was a reprieve from more rain. But it was definitely interesting to be in a building where the rain is coming down in the middle of the room. We finished the evening going to the Ristorante del Giglo recommended by tour book author Rich Steves.

One note on Rome and the Pope. I don’t think people realize how accessible the Pope is. In 1967 we joined several thousand of the faithful in St. Peters Basilica to see the Pope carried in by the Swiss Guards on a medieval litter. I hung on the side of a column to get a good view. Flash forward to 2007 and you can obtain tickets to a papal audience relatively simply at several churches in Rome or at the Vatican. Sarah thought I was silly to want to go, but I figure, when in Rome, go see the Pope.

Our second day in Rome we went to the Colosseo. In 1967 you could pretty much wander wherever you wanted. Now it’s a little more restricted. We did an audio tour. After the Coliseum we walked to Palatine Hill and signed up for a tour of the Forum. It was one of the best decisions we made in Italy. Our tour guide was an archeologist name Stefan Elevetan. He looked like he was from “Middle Earth” but brought the Forum to life with his renditions of the history of the various buildings. We had lunch at the Gran Caffé Roma and walked through the Victor Emmanuel Monument. Then we found our way to the Spanish Steps and sat in the sun. What else do you do at the Spanish Steps but sit in the sun and people watch? We left there to walk to the Sante Susannah Church to pick up our tickets to see the Pope. We had dinner at the Capitello Ristorante near our hotel.

The next morning was the papal audience. Got up early, grabbed some breakfast, jumped on the metro to San Pietro. When we got off the metro, my first thought was to purchase some religious trinkets to be blessed by the Pope. Rest assured, Sarah gave me a hard time about this somewhat silly shopping adventure. As we walked through the columns embracing the piazza, I noticed that they no longer smelled like urine as in 1967. Thank goodness for security cameras and vigilant guards.

So onward to the new auditorium where the Papal audiences are now held. No more medieval Tom foolery for this Pope. The auditorium was huge and there were many groups from around the world that were chanting “Papa Benedetto.” The Pope was much smaller than we expected, but there was something charming about him. He spoke about San Stefano in several languages, but what exactly, I don’t remember. Several newly married couples were there with the brides in their wedding gowns. The Pope blessed each and every one of them.

Ah yes, nothing like being blessed by the Pope and I’m not even Catholic. From there we spent the afternoon in St. Peters Basilica. Sarah and I walked around this huge space which was being cleaned by what looked like a Zamboni machine. I read out loud to Sarah a description of the Basilica from Rich Steves. Then we paid to walk up into the cupola of St. Peters. Walking around the inside of the cupola made my knees weak to look down on the altar and the twisted Bernini columns. From there we climbed to the top. Flash to the foreign film La Dolca Vita. The view from the top was spectacular with the city of Rome at our feet. You can really see how the piazza in front of the Basilica was once a chariot race course. I love multi-use historical places.

Our last day in Rome we spent at the Vatican Museum. Wow! I made Sarah go through every room with me. It was my second visit in my life time and may be my last. This time I was actually taken aback by the incredible wealth of the Vatican. How can they with clear conscience own all this incredible art and artifacts? No wonder there was the Reformation. But also, the Vatican has preserved art and artifacts that may have otherwise been lost. Mixed feelings there. Toward the end of our tour of the museum, we found ourselves in the Sistine Chapel. It has been restored since 1967 and the colors are now truly magnificent. Some people were just sitting and taking it all in. Magnificent.

After the museum Sarah and I headed to the airport to stay at the Rome Airport Hilton. Why? Well, we we’re leaving the next morning early and it seemed like the right choice since we could walk right out of the hotel, and through the airport, to our boarding gate. I have to admit, I was ready for a little bit of luxury after staying in budget hotels for two weeks, although I loved the B&B in Venice.

So Rome 1967 and Rome 2007. I’m so glad the Italians finally figured out flush toilets. Those porcelain pans in the floor with places for your feet were a real drag even for a teenager. I’m also glad I got to experience Rome with my lovely daughter. She complained about going to see the Pope, but when we returned to the USA it was the first thing she talked about.